If it is true that until the thirties there is no trace of the preparation of the carbonara in Rome, this recipe begins to appear in 1944. Such a coincidence of dates provides a valuable clue to understand to whom to attribute the invention of this tasty dish.
It is said, in fact, that the Allied soldiers engaged during the Second World War on the Reinhard line, between Lazio, Molise and Campania, had the opportunity to taste and become attached to the typical "Cacio e ova" Abbruzzese pasta. It was natural, at least according to what is said between historical reality and legend, to add the guanciale, typical of the area, and possibly the smoked bacon imported from the United States. They were the flavors that reminded "home" to the soldiers, but this did not prevent the Romans, once the recipe was discovered, to make the carbonara their own, which has literally been adopted to the point that, today, no one would dare to doubt its geographical paternity.
The origin and history of carbonara do not explain, however, why this name was given to the evolution with guanciale of the "cacio e ova". The name seems to refer to tradition: it is said, in fact, that it was called carbonara thinking of the woodcutters who worked in the Apennines collecting wood to make charcoal. Among the infinite versions that are handed down about the origin of this dish and its name, there is one that links it to the story of a noble woman from Pole sine who, in the nineteenth century, used to host the meetings of the Carbonari and, probably, cheer the discussions with a rich plate of pasta.
It is now recognized, as also confirmed by the New York Times, that carbonara is not a100% Italian recipe, but when it comes to the merits of the inevitable ingredients it is here that the made in Italy and tradition re-emerge forcefully from history to quell all the diatribes. First of all, it is important to reiterate and reaffirm that the real carbonara is prepared with the bacon, cut into strips and cooked until it becomes slightly crispy. The use of smoked bacon, although endorsed by some cooking manuals, is not purely philological.
Among other ingredients, we find egg yolks, a whole egg, grated pecorino, preferably Roman PDO, salt and pepper. Absolute ban, on which the experts all agree, for the addition of cream. The rules for preparing the perfect carbonara also specify that the pasta should be long: so green light to bavette or bucatini, but to be on the safe side and not make mistakes, the ideal is to choose spaghetti. Finally, pay attention to the tricks of the trade: to avoid what is called "omelet effect" you have to prevent the egg from being added to the pot while it is on the fire. If it comes into contact with a temperature above 75 ° C, in fact, it will cook very quickly, thickening and ruining the perfect carbonara. One last gem concerns the pepper: for an optimal result the suggestion is to grind it at the moment and avoid the one already in powder, in order to give the dish that final touch of flavor that can make the difference.
The simplicity and versatility of carbonara has meant that in just over half a century of history there have been many starred chefs and not who have chosen to deal with this sacred monster, adding, removing, modifying at will to propose a carbonara author. There is certainly that of Alba Esteve Luiz to which we have already referred, but it is not the only one. Remaining in Rome, one of those who has made carbonara his strength, combining tradition and innovation is certainly Luciano Monosilio, chef of the starred Romano Pipero. Presented at Identità Pasta in 2013, its Carbonara Futura combines classic ingredients with "new" flavors and foods such as miso, Jerusalem artichoke, smoked green tea powder, and licorice.
Also interesting is the proposal of Lisa Casali, blogger who has made the fight against food waste one of her main battles. Her carbonara is a flan with the classic ingredients and some additions such as leeks, perfect to take with you for a lunch on the fly on the beach or in the park, and to consume that pasta that was just left over from the day before.
Finally, there is a restaurant in Bologna, the "Libra", where carbonara has fewer calories than unseasoned rice: this is possible thanks to the union between chef Giovanni Nerini and Chiara Manzi, president of the Association for Nutritional Science in the Kitchen and founder of the "Art Joins Nutrition Academy" school. The recipe is, at least for now, secret, so a stop in the spaces of the former Elios typography is necessary to prove if innovation has a taste that can compete with tradition.
Every now and then a disconcerting recipe for pasta alla carbonara reappears on social media. Disconcerting not so much because the ingredients include garlic and even Gruyère instead of Parmesan, but because this recipe, which appeared in the magazine "La Cucina Italiana" in 1954, is the first ever published in Italy. The dish that in everyone's belief would have an ancient origin, even secular, is actually not mentioned in any recipe book before that date, so it must be a recent invention. This is already known in truth, but usually those who dare to say it or write it are silenced even with personal offenses (when it comes to cooking there are those who show an intolerance that is unparalleled even in political discussions).
The Taliban of the "original" recipes are horrified to hear that the Roman pasta par excellence was born only with the arrival of allied troops in 1944, and that it would have been invented in none other than Riccione, by a chef who used bacon and freeze-dried eggs supplied to American soldiers, and that the first recipe of which we know is found in a book printed in Chicago, and that at the beginning was cooked with bacon and cream, while the formula in vogue today with bacon and pecorino cheese has definitively established itself only in the 80s and 90s.
It was established not because it was the original recipe, but for a much more valid reason: because it was good. The Taliban mentioned above should come to terms with it. It seems that one day, an American soldier, finding that plate of spaghetti insignificant, added the so-called "K ration", consisting of powdered eggs, bacon and liquid cream. A recipe that today makes us shudder, but that could be the ancestor of our beloved ancestor.
From that unbalanced and very American recipe, the Neapolitans worked on the ingredients and carbonara was born. Soon the recipe spread to Rome that made it his own, adopted it in all respects making it "a myth".
400 g pasta (spaghetti, mezze maniche, bucatini)
280 g bacon
200 g pecorino Romano cheese
5 egg yolks (medium size)
black peppercorns to taste
How to make Carbonara?
It's really an easy recipe, ready in 15 minutes.
It was born as a poor dish of Roman cuisine with the ingredients that were available, then eggs, cheese and guanciale. In ancient times it was prepared with whole eggs, over time the recipe has been refined and only the yolks are used. The egg count is 1 medium yolk per diner + 1 extra yolk. So, if there are 4 of you, you will need 5 egg yolks. If you are 2, only 3 yolks! To have a nice yellow cream, use yellow eggs, but, of course, it is not essential. I used these, that's why the cream has a nice bright color! If you want a richer and creamier Carbonara and especially if the portion of pasta is more than 100 grams per person, count1 yolk per 50 grams of pasta. Honestly, since I make portions of 100 g, I always use the doses that I have indicated among the ingredients and in the recipe. For pepper, I recommend using black peppercorns, freshly ground, which will give all the aroma.
First, heat a pot of water. As salt it takes little: about half of the usual quantity, since pecorino is already very tasty. When it has reached the boil, boil the chosen pasta: long pasta such as spaghetti or bucatini, but also the mezze maniche are perfect. Take the bacon, remove the rind, and cut it into rather thick strips, of approx. half a centimeter. Let it sizzle in a pan, over moderate heat, until the fat part becomes transparent. There is no need to add more oil, since it will already cook in its abundant fat. Pour the fat into a small bowl. Put the bacon back on the heat to make it crispy for a few minutes, then turn off the heat and keep the bacon apart. Place the egg yolks in a bowl, add the pecorino cheese (holding two tablespoons for decoration) and a sprinkling of freshly ground black pepper. Mix briefly with a spatula. Add 2 ladles of bacon to make the egg yolk mixture creamy, thick and velvety, mixing with the spatula. Set aside a glass of pasta cooking water and drain it al dente. Pour the pasta into the pan where you cooked the bacon, with the heat off, and add the cream of egg yolks and pecorino cheese and a ladle of cooking water. Mix very well to mix everything. If necessary, add water again. This operation will be done strictly out of focus. When the pasta carbonara has become super creamy (but not liquid), thanks to the heat of the pasta and the starches contained in the water, add the guanciale (keeping some strips for decoration), mix briefly and serve in the various dishes. Decorate with a sprinkling of pecorino cheese and a little more pepper.
Your Carbonara is ready!
The real Carbonara just as it is served in the taverns of Rome!
