Monday, December 4, 2023

Umbria from Orvieto to Sagrantino



The Etruscans present in the region of Umbria devoted particular care to the cultivation of vines, and the region enjoyed its fruits long before the Roman legions extended their dominion there. Pliny the Elder, speaking of vines, recalls that the Etruscans favored the "Apiane" vines for sweet wines, and that the "Tudernis" vine (from Todi) was particularly present.

Martial, who was born in Spain but lived in Rome in the first century A.D., expressed conflicting opinions about the wine of Spoleto, which had opposite qualities depending on where it was produced. There is no mention of viticulture in Umbrian historical documents for some centuries, and only in the Middle Ages do we find some information on the registers of convents and monasteries founded in the area. It is necessary to reach the second half of the 1500s to have a more detailed judgment on the wines of Umbria. It was Sante Lancerio who defined Sucano (Orvieto area) as excellent, while Bacci speaks of the wines of Gubbio, white and black, which were fermented for a short time on the pomace, so that they had a lighter color and were ready to drink. Bacci also dwells at greater length on the wines of Nocera, Assisi, Amelia, Norcia, Spello, Todi, Città di Castello, and makes largely positive appreciations on those of Orvieto, already at that time bottled in small straw flasks, which over time took the name of "pulcinelle", due to the dachshund and pot-bellied shape assumed.

Today Umbria is famous in the world for the white wine of Orvieto, where excellent sweet whites are also produced, but according to some this territory seems to be more suitable for great reds. Torgiano has been producing good quality whites and reds since the '70s, but for some years now one of the phenomena of Italian oenology has been Sagrantino di Montefalco which, with its monumental structure, demonstrates what a hidden heritage of native grapes there is in Italy.

Sagrantino di Montefalco

Made from a storied grape rescued from near-extinction, Montefalco Sagrantino is like no other Italian wine. The hilly Montefalco region of Umbria in Central Italy is home to this deeply tannic, woodsy powerhouse of a wine starring the local Sagrantino grape.

Montefalco Sagrantino owes its surging presence to the Caprai family, the region’s top producer, who nurtured it from mid-twentieth-century obscurity to DOCG status by 1992. Thanks to their efforts, Montefalco Sagrantino has finally arrived as one of Umbria’s greatest assets, just in time for its 400th birthday.

The wine must be 95% made from the local Sagrantino grape and aged at least 37 months to give its rough edges time to soften. Even more intense is the passito version, whose grapes must be dried after harvest to achieve a minimum potential alcohol of 15.5%.

Often called il cuore verde d’Italia (the green heart of Italy), Umbria is a landlocked region that sits almost dead-center on the boot, with a similar climate to Tuscany, spotted with hill towns and lush, fertile valleys, a wonderful locale for much of Italy’s finest olive oil, truffles, game meats and, of course, grapes. 

Tasting note
Deep ruby red in colour. Rich and complex nose characterized by notes of rich red fruit, tobacco and oregano. On the palate this wine is dry and full bodied with great structure, firm tannins, and a long finish. One of the great Italian ageing reds.

 

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