Pasta alla carrettiera 

Pasta alla carrettiera is a very tasty first course made with a few simple ingredients. The name seems to derive from the Sicilian carters who prepared this dish of easy preservation to be able to taste it during their travels. The pasta alla carrettiera knows different versions, it is also proposed in Roman cuisine and in more recent variants with the addition, for example, of mushrooms and tuna. In this recipe I propose a dressing of garlic, chili, Pecorino and parsley raw, in which to mix the spaghetti. A tantalizing and quick sauce that will be prepared in the cooking time of the pasta. With the pasta alla carrettiera you will make garlic lovers happy, but also reassure the most fearful: raw garlic will be more digestible if you take care to eliminate the inner sprout!

The Lazio cuisine is characterized by a variety of flavors, ingredients and raw materials in which Rome is the protagonist yes, but not absolute. Throughout the region, from the Rieti Apennines to the Pontine coasts, we find a certain wealth of ingredients that can make us forget the attractive role of the Capitoline tables. From the peasant culture and the traditions of breeding derive a recipe in the region: pasta alla carrettiera. Add this tomatoey Roman-style pasta sauce to your arsenal of recipes you can make from a small handful of pantry staples.  Spaghetti alla carrettiera offers two things to us all right now. The first is practical recipe ideas that we can lean on to make mealtime a little more interesting. The second is more philosophical. At its heart, carrettiera is the pantry pasta sauce, demonstrating just how much possibility is already hidden within our larders. Let's take inspiration from that. 

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 ounces (40g) dried porcini mushrooms

1 cup (235ml) boiling water

1/2 cup (120ml) extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for finishing pasta

4 medium cloves garlic, minced

Large pinch red pepper flakes

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh parsley leaves and tender stems, divided, plus more for garnish

One (28-ounce; 795g) can whole peeled tomatoes with liquid, thoroughly crushed

One (5-ounce; 140g) olive oil-packed tuna, preferably ventresca (tuna belly), oil reserved

Kosher salt

1 pound (450g) dried spaghetti

PREPARATION

In a small heatproof bowl or measuring cup, soak mushrooms in boiling water until fully softened, about 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove mushrooms from soaking liquid and squeeze out excess moisture back into the bowl or measuring cup. Reserve rehydrated mushrooms and 1/4 cup (60ml) soaking liquid, making sure to dispose of any grit that has settled at the bottom. In a 5-quart pot, combine 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil, garlic, pepper flakes, and 1 tablespoon minced parsley. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until very fragrant and garlic is just beginning to turn the lightest shade of gold, about 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring, until lightly sautéed and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add reserved 1/4 cup (60ml) mushroom soaking liquid, tomatoes, and 2 tablespoons (30ml) reserved tuna oil (if your tuna doesn't have that much oil, just add as much as it does), and bring to a simmer. Season with salt. In a pot of salted, boiling water, cook spaghetti, stirring frequently, until just shy of al dente, about 1 minute less than package recommends. While spaghetti is cooking, flake tuna into pasta sauce. Using tongs, transfer spaghetti directly into simmering sauce along with 1/4 cup (60ml) pasta cooking water, stirring to combine. Cook, stirring, until pasta is al dente and sauce has thickened, so it coats noodles and isn't watery, about 3 minutes. Add remaining 1/4 cup minced parsley and 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil, stirring vigorously to combine. If sauce is too thick, add more olive oil or pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring well between additions, until desired sauce consistency is reached. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if necessary. Transfer to warmed plates and sprinkle with minced parsley. Serve right away.

Tip

The sauce can be made in ahead of time and refrigerated up to 3 days, but it's best when made right before serving.