Eggplant caponata

Caponata is a typical dish of the Sicilian gastronomic tradition. It can be served as an appetizer and as a side dish and is perfect for the summer season, as the protagonists are the eggplants. My version is that of a family recipe.

The caponata is enjoyed cold, at room temperature, sprinkled with chopped basil. The caponata, kept tightly closed, in the refrigerator keeps well for two or three days, even gaining in flavor. However, remove it from the fridge at least an hour before serving. Caponata: one, a hundred, a thousand. How uncertain is the etymological origin of the name - from caupo, tavern keeper, indicating tavern food? From capon, a joking way invented by Spanish sailors to indicate the galletta, the biscuit that replaces bread during navigation? At Capone's, the fish that was once used as an ingredient instead of eggplant? - so the composition varies according to the season and the area of Sicily in which it is prepared. An example? There is a winter variant that includes artichokes instead of eggplant.

Of course, the preparation of this dish takes a few hours and if done the day before it gives time to the aromas to mix. Once cooled, it should be stored in the fridge to be taken out an hour before the meal. A dish for parties and special occasions, baroque in taste, it is served as an appetizer or side dish. I went to Sicily to find out what are the secrets to a perfect caponata. The version I present is from Messina. Here are the ingredients for six people: the dish is hearty, the portions don't have to be large.

INGREDIENTS

2 silk aubergines

1 large onion 

3/4 seeded and filleted cherry tomatoes

1 red bell pepper

40 g raisins

a stick of celery

100 g whole pitted green olives

30 g pine nuts

1 tbsp salted capers

extra virgin olive oil

3-4 tbsp white vinegar

1 tablespoon of orange blossom honey

2 tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa powder

Marsala

salt

Procedure

To begin with: the aubergines should be cut and put in water and salt for about half an hour so that they lose their bitterness. They should then be squeezed well and cut into cubes. Then peel and slice the onion, preferably red onion, which is sweeter. The celery stalk is also cut into cubes, keeping a few leaves. Then the pepper, first in strips and then in pieces. In the meantime, and this is a first secret, the raisins are soaked in a little Marsala. Frying: take all the time you need and follow this rule: onion, celery and then tomatoes together; eggplant aside; peppers aside. Not all at once, and this is another important precaution for the final result, because frying times are different and must be respected. Salt should be added at the end. For the eggplant, the heat must be high and the pan not too full to prevent it from being boiled and not fried. Two minutes before the onion and celery are sautéed, add the raisins, pine nuts and a handful of olives. It is stirred to toast the pine nuts. Then you turn off the stove. The composition: once fried, peppers and aubergines should be drained and pat dry, to dry the grease as much as possible. Then they should be added to onion, celery and tomatoes. The frying oil that you have to taste, and this is another secret, is only that of the sautéed onion and celery.

Meanwhile, in a glass, combine 3/4 tablespoons of white wine vinegar, one tablespoon of orange blossom honey and one or two tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa, stirring to dissolve the honey. When all the ingredients are in the pan of onion and celery, turn on the heat and pour the contents of the glass, stirring for 3/4 minutes, the time for the vinegar to evaporate. Final touch: with the heat off, add a few basil leaves, a sprinkling of chopped and toasted almonds or peanuts. If desired, a grating of bitter chocolate.