Thursday, September 7, 2023

Did you know that pairing Olives from Greece with Costa d’Amalfi Lemon IGP brings out their flavor?



Fragrant, healthy and versatile in the kitchen. The Amalfi Coast Lemon is one of the gastronomic jewels of the famous strip of Campania land, located south of the Sorrento peninsula. The Amalfi Coast Lemon is a wonderful miracle brushed with yellow and juicy soul, one of the best known fruits of the Amalfi Coast. This ancient variety of citrus has become an ambassador of an area rich in art and history, considered a UNESCO heritage site since 1997.

The ancient presence of lemon groves in the Mediterranean strip of land drawn overlooking the sea and south of Naples, is testified by numerous historical documents. The Limone Costa d'Amalfi I.G.P., whose cultivar is the Sfusato Amalfitano, makes its appearance around the eleventh century thanks to the Arabs who bring it here after introducing it in Spain and Sicily. In this period the Amalfi landscape begins to be dotted with lemon groves, renamed "gardens" for their natural beauty, very useful to stem the threat of hydrogeological instability. The reasons for the start of lemon farming, at the time of the Maritime Republic, are to be found in the fact that its spread allowed Amalfi navigators to possess on board their ships a powerful weapon against scurvy. From 1400 onwards, the flourishing trade of the Amalfi lemon grows unstoppably which, from the village of Minori, reaches numerous Italian and European ports to be appreciated even in America.

This is how Giovanni Battista Ferrari, an Italian Jesuit, botanist and orientalist, describes the "limon striatus amalphitanus" in his treatise "Flora, overo Cultura dei Fiori" published in 1633. The book introduces the art of gardening, also provides an overview of the cultivation of flowers and citrus fruits, and is considered a monument of botanical literature of Europe of the seventeenth century. Very fragrant and aromatic, the Sfusato Amalfitano is a citrus fruit with an elongated elliptical shape, "tapered", with few seeds, which has a skin of medium thickness and bright yellow color. Its juice is abundant, somewhat acidic; The weight is around 100 grams upwards. The landscape of the Amalfi Coast is the unique stage where the loose lemon is born and grows: a boundless sea of green dotted with tiny yellow spots bordered at times by the clear stones of the heroic terraces, called "macere". The Amalfi Coast Lemon P.G.I. is grown in a small area of the Amalfi Coast between the municipalities of Amalfi, Cetara, Furore, Maiori, Minori, Positano, Conca dei Marini, Ravello, Praiano, Scala, Tramonti and Vietri sul Mare. Even today the Sfusato Amalfitano is cultivated respecting traditional agricultural techniques. The cultivation of lemon plants takes place under scaffolding of chestnut poles, protected in the coldest periods. The plants are spaced from each other and, in each hectare of land, there are more than 800 plants whose maximum production capacity is about 35 tons of citrus fruits.

The lemon trees cling to the steepest slopes of the "divine Coast" and play an important role in the hydrogeological protection of the entire landscape, constituting a valuable element of prominence. The harvest takes place several times a year, due to the typical phenomenon of polymorphism (flowering and continuous maturation) in lemons, even if the highest quality production is obtained between March and the end of July. Properties of Sfusato Amalfitano and uses in the kitchen
Lemon is a fruit rich in nutritional properties beneficial for the body, low-calorie and digestive. On the table it is indispensable because it is a consistent source of vitamin C, useful for absorbing the iron present in food. The Amalfi Coast Lemon I.G.P. has the highest content of ascorbic acid and is rich, in the skin, of terpenes that give a strong aroma. It also has a large number of oil glands in the flavèdo, which is the outermost, yellow part of the fruit peel rich in glands that secrete essential oils. Just in this part you can feel the aroma of this lemon more. Its characteristics allow it to be consumed naturally, perhaps with the addition of salt or sugar. Excellent use of zest in the preparation of a hot infusion, such as the canary, indicated against nausea or poor digestion.

The use of this Mediterranean fruit and particularly versatile is indicated to flavor various recipes: appetizers, meat dishes, fish, vegetables, side dishes, numerous types of sauces (salmoriglio, citronette, sour onion sauce, etc.) and desserts. In the areas of the Amalfi Coast it is used both natural and in salads. The chefs of the area also combine it with other flavors mixed, for example, with yellow datterini in risotto. The two flavors balance well with a fresh and sugary note. An intriguing bright yellow tasting path is the one that sees the Sfusato Amalfitano protagonist, with its rind, of the liqueur symbol par excellence of the Amalfi Coast: limoncello (discover the real recipe). It is obtained from the maceration of the skins in ethyl alcohol with an alcohol content of at least 90% to which water and sugar are added. Fresh and with an intense fragrance, it is an ideal sweet liqueur at the end of a meal.

The protection of the Amalfi product is guaranteed by the Consorzio di Tutela Limone Costa d'Amalfi I.G.P., established in 2002, both in Italy and in the European territory. The body ensures the origin and quality of the product historically and traditionally recognized by the market thanks to the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) brand and is also active in the promotion and dissemination of the unique characteristics of Sfusato Amalfitano to commercial and professional operators, consumers, tour operators and the media.

https://www.limonecostadamalfiigp.com/

This is not even a real recipe, it is just a putting together some ingredients, but the essential thing is to have oranges and lemons ready in brine. I love fermentations, and the salt lemons that many Middle Eastern countries make are fantastic. Usually they are made with whole lemons, cut into 4 keeping the slices connected to the bottom, open in flower and put a handful of salt in the middle, then press the lemons into large jars. The salt will emit the lemon juice and everything will be covered with liquid. This time, however, I decided to try with sliced lemons, and also with oranges since I had fantastic untreated Sicilian citrus fruits.

INGREDIENTS

Untreated oranges and lemons
Fine or coarse, non-iodized sea salt (this is important)
Two large jars
a couple of weights or two grills of those you put in jars to keep the vegetables immersed
Optional ingredients (bay leaves or ginger) 

PROCEDURE

Wash both oranges and lemons very well (the amount will depend on the size of the jar). Slice the fruit into slices not too thick, around 1/2 cm, (better eliminating and seeds but it is not essential). Put a couple of tablespoons of salt at the bottom of the jar and then start making a layer of lemon slices and then a layer of salt, not too thick the salt but it should still be well distributed over all the slices. Repeat the procedure until the jar is filled, put the chosen weight on it, I use glass cups that enter perfectly from the neck of the jar, press well, close the jug with its cap (remembering to add a piece of film, it serves to isolate the metal lid from the juice that will form). Leave the mugs on the work surface at room temperature, in about 24-36 hours the liquid should cover the fruit spontaneously, in case, after the time, the liquid had not filled the jar, open and add orange and lemon juice until it covers, reposition the weight and let it ferment, always covered with plastic wrap and with the lid at room temperature for at least 3 weeks. Bubbles will form, little liquid could also come out of the jar, it is better to place them in a deep dish for safety, after the time, put the jars in the refrigerator, the citrus fruits will be preserved for up to a year. I used rather large jars, which I kept in the second fridge, when I then decided to taste, (at least after a month, I after 3) I poured part of the contents into two smaller jars, and I put the rest back in the second fridge. It is also possible to transfer all the contents into smaller jars suitable for the refrigerator, however the jars prepared in this way are kept in a cool place for a long time.

Sliced oranges have a slightly more marked bitter aftertaste, this should however be remembered when they are used, for lemons the aftertaste is less evident. You can use both the slices and the juice obtained, the slices are suitable to be used in moderation with meat or fish, the thick and slightly gelatinous liquid that will form will be fantastic for flavoring vinegrettes, various condiments, both the chopped slices and the liquid will look great with seasoned olives, oranges with black olives and lemons with green olives. Let yourself be carried away by their scent to find ideas on how to use them, however they are also widely used with tajines. Remember to reduce the salt in cooking when you will use these citrus fruits. Try to add a little liquid to a mayonnaise, you will feel how wonderfully tasty it is.

Ingredients for seasoned GREEN olives


Whole or pitted green olives 
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Garlic powder 1 pinch
Aromas to taste, such as oregano, thyme, marjoram, but in small quantities, so as not to cover the flavor of lemon
1 tablespoon of pickled lemons cut into small pieces plus a couple of whole slices for decoration.

Procedure

Rinse the olives from their storage water, season them with a couple of tablespoons of apple cider vinegar, turn them well and drain them, we do not want them to be sorrel, we just want to counteract the water that we will have used for rinsing or if the olives were very salty at the start, the time to desalinate them a little in water. Put the olives in a bowl, add the chosen aromas, the pinch of garlic (better in powder to distribute it well, better not to overdo it so as not to cover the aromas) then add the slices of lemon or orange (depending on the color of the olives you have chosen), season with a nice round of abundant extra virgin olive oil, mix well, garnish with lemon or orange slices and cover. Let macerate for at least a couple of hours, the longer they stay together the better the flavor will be.

Note 
The choice of olives is important, if you have plenty of time, use whole olives (with stone) if you have tight deadlines, pitted olives will flavor more quickly. The recipe is similar for both black or brown olives and green ones, but the choice of lemon or orange is targeted, lemon is more suitable for green olives because it has a lower bitter note. Instead the orange in brine maintains a slight bitter note (very light) so it adapts better to dark olives that have a more marked flavor. You can then indulge yourself at will with spices to add, always trying to balance the aromas and not to exceed in doses. With the black olives you can also add a pinch of sugar and a few slices of sweet red onion. They are kept in a closed jar in the refrigerator for at least a week.


 

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