Friday, January 27, 2023

Appetizers, from their ancient history to today's tables...



The term "appetizer" is of Roman origin: "ante-paestum" means, in fact, "before lunch" and was to indicate that series of foods with a light taste and simple preparation that were put at the table just to open lunch. It is probably the most delicious dish and also the most fun to prepare because it is very suitable for the imagination of those who cook. Today I was curious to talk about the origins of this dish, which come from our lands, and what typical delicacies the culinary cultures of Italy have been able to give us.

As already mentioned, the appetizer originates in Ancient Rome. The Romans loved to eat before lunch crudités of vegetables accompanied by a multitude of sauces, or caramelized fruit, especially figs. Many Latin writings that have come down to us today also remind us how they were aware that starting the meal with vegetables and salads helped the stomach to receive the other courses, which especially in the houses of the nobles were quite rich and elaborate. After the appetizer we moved on to the first course, which featured wild boars on the spit, decorated hares, parrots stuffed with peacock eggs, baked fish, shrimps, seafood. The second course concluded the banquet with sweets and fruit of all kinds. After the fall of the Roman Empire and throughout the Middle Ages it seems that the appetizer fell into disuse, leaving directly to the game the task of opening meals. It was in the sixteenth century that it reappeared, and then came down to us.

In Italy, in the lands where the sanding action of the sea is strong and the production chain is that of fishing activities, the task of preceding meals has usually been assigned to shrimps, croutons with sea urchins or accompaniments based on tuna, olives, parsley and lemon. In regions where the climate is dry, the wind blows from the north and winters are harsh, appetizers become hearty dishes based on cheeses, cold cuts, or savory pies. This kind of appetizer is now called cold or Italian appetizer and is known all over the world.

It is in the tables of the wealthy and bourgeois classes of pre-unification Italy (and also in France) that the art of appetizers develops more, with court chefs presenting their creations, mostly based on hot dishes and appetizers. Surely the appetizer was not for everyone, but even among the poor something was created. The lower classes mostly ate unique dishes and based everything on the philosophy of "we eat what is there" and "we do not leave the leftovers". Right from here are born some delicacies such as bruschetta with olive oil and oregano (practically the bread left over the day before heated) or olives Ascolane (fried surplus olives).

But it is precisely in northern Italy that originates, however, the tradition of putting cured meats before the meal. Indeed, once it was a real second breakfast or, if you like, a meal before lunch. The farmers, in fact, gathered together with their families and the owner of the farm on feast days and, especially in winter, they used to eat the cured meats of the plain and homemade cheeses accompanied by a nice glass of red wine. This tradition became increasingly popular with the subsequent amalgamation of social classes and the workers of the land often took advantage of this pre-meal as a break from work to recharge their energies by preparing real cutting boards.

However, vegetables have been an essential base for some time: today, if they are not used. Directly inside dishes, they are used in the form of numerous creams that accompany especially cold cuts. Not to mention the mustards that are used both to accompany cheeses in appetizers and second courses such as boiled meats. An excellent solution adopted by many families is to keep vegetables in oil, which are thus preserved to be reused during appetizers. Very practical to serve: just remove the pickles from the jar and serve them with bread, crackers, breadsticks or bruschetta next to a nice plate of cold cuts.

With appetizers like this we are sure that the appetite... comes with eating!

 

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