Cesanese del Piglio 2017 

In the cultivation area of Cesanese it is still possible to find some signs of the ancient cultivation techniques, imported there by the Etruscan and Greek colonizers, and wisely applied by Roman growers in the Republican and Imperial ages, with now rare, but beautiful examples of vines trained in the "distaff" or married to elm and ash. 

Historical Notes of Cesanese

The Cesanesi are cultivated in the territories of Affile, Olevano Romano, Piglio and surroundings. These places were inhabited by the Aequi and Hernici as early as 1000 BC and became a Roman colony in 306 BC. It was in this period that the term Cesanese was coined, a vine that was cultivated in the caesae, that is, in the "places with cut trees".

Just iles east of Rome, the DOCG vineyards of Cesanese del Piglio can be found. With scenic hills and a reputation for being “the king of wines”, this area does not disappoint. Cesanese del Piglio, which is commonly shortened to Piglio, is a DOCG area in the heart of Lazio, Italy. The area is famous for the Cesanese variety, which accounts for over 90% of the vineyards. This robust red wine is a deep and intense wine that has put this DOCG area on the map. Other than the famed Piglio area, Lazio also covers other popular wine-producing regions, including Frascati and Zagarolo.

Cesanese del Piglio wines have precise regulations when it comes to the production and result of the wine. To start with, a minimum of 90% of the wine has to consist of the Cesanese variety, while the remaining 10% can be a combination of other varieties grown in Lazio. These varieties range from Trebbiano to Malvasia di Candia and Malvasia. In many cases, the wine is made from 100% Cesanese, but the blend of other varieties are added when the particular vintage lacks substance.

The acidity is a trademark feature of this wine, along with its elegance, ageability and unique array of aromas. With this wine, you can expect savory, meaty aromas, along with red fruits like cranberries and pomegranates.

By law, the wine must be aged for 18 months with an alcohol level of 13%. For the Superiore Riserva wines (which are highly regarded, premium versions) the wine must be aged for a minimum of 20 months (with six of this being in the bottle).

Much of the wine’s success stems from the area’s terroir, which contributes to the quality of the wines. The area’s soil consists mainly of clay soil that offers few nutrients and high iron content. Although this might seem detrimental to the vines, it allows the grapes to develop complex characteristics with small berries and highly concentrated flavor.

The Cesanese del Piglio DOCG appellation refers to three types of wine

Cesanese del Piglio DOCG

Cesanese del Piglio DOCG Superiore

Cesanese del Piglio DOCG Riserva

which describe red wines produced exclusively from Cesanese grapes obtained in the municipal area of Piglio, Serrone, Acuto, Anagni and Paliano. All municipalities belonging to the province of Frosinone.

Cesanese del Piglio DOCG: Cesanese di Affile and/or Cesanese comune 90% minimum. Other black grape varieties, suitable for cultivation in the Lazio Region, may be added for a maximum of 10%. Cesanese del Piglio has a ruby red color with violet reflections. It has a characteristic smell of the basic grape variety, and the taste is soft, dry and slightly bitter. A wine with a good structure and the presence of good polyphenolic and polymerized tannins, which give the wine a character of fullness, absence of roughness and good longevity.

Cesanese del Piglio DOCG Riserva: it is aged for at least 20 months, of which 6 months are aged in the bottle and with a minimum total alcoholic strength by volume of 14.00% vol. Cesanese del Piglio DOCG: Max yield 71,50 Max grape/wine yield 65%. The presence of viticulture in this specific area dates back to Roman times. There are also numerous statutes, the Statutes of the Terra del Piglio (1479) which contain numerous chapters that describe and establish the areas to be used as vineyards, the methods of harvesting and the regulation of the wine trade.

Most famous vineyards

Of the territory predisposed to the denomination which includes over 15000 hectares, only 144 are currently used for vineyards (Arsial 2020 data). These vineyards are mainly distributed along the hills that go from the border with Olevano Romano DOC to Le Fattora (between Piglio and Serrone), and on the ridge that climbs to the Fraginali mountains. Here the most suitable locations are Croce, Collepasso, Civitella, Vignali and Valle Bianca. Other areas with the presence of vineyards are those on the slopes of Mount Pila and in Torre Piano, more precisely in the localities of Pedicate and Casal Cervino. All the wines produced in these areas are characterized by a good flavor and freshness. Also in the area of Anagni there are particularly suitable vineyards, such as Gloria, Colle Cisterna, Caetanella and Colletonno. In this case, however, the wines produced in this area are more full-bodied and soft.

DOCG

Cesanese del Piglio is the only red wine in Lazio to have obtained DOCG status. DOCG brand in 2008.

Characteristics of Cesanese wine

As also described in the production regulations of the DOC and DOCG of the provinces of Rome and Frosinone, Cesanese wine is characterized by a ruby red color, tending to garnet with aging, a soft flavor, due to the medium-low fixed acidity and slightly bitter, due to the presence of non-aggressive tannins.

Tasting note

My first encounter with this style of wine. Enjoyed this with a pizza and Baccala alla Romana. A wiff of wood smoke in the nose. Good depth of flavors. Blackberry, cranberries, charcoal, oak & leather tannins. A very dry fruit laden palate with lots of tart acidity and a mineral heavy finish. There are hints of aromatic spices (cloves?) but the secondary flavors are submerged by the strong acidity. Bright ruby. Very perfumed and somewhat rustic. Light cherries, redcurrants, leather, cloves, fennel. Piercing acidity but enough fruit to back it up. A true personality.